If you want to prevent signs of aging, or reverse the ones already there, medical-grade skincare is one of the easiest and most affordable places to start. And one ingredient comes up again and again among doctors and aestheticians: growth factors.
Here is what they are, where they come from, and how to choose between them.
What Are Growth Factors?
Growth factors are signaling molecules your body already makes. They tell cells to divide, repair and grow. In the skin, they handle everyday repair, such as fixing sun damage, and keep skin cells turning over properly.
Their most important job in aging skin is stimulating fibroblasts. These are the cells in the deeper layer of the skin that produce collagen and elastin, which keep skin firm, plump and elastic.
The problem is that collagen production drops considerably with age. That makes anything that nudges fibroblasts back into action especially valuable, and that is what a growth factor serum is designed to do.
Where Growth Factors Come From
Growth factors used in skincare fall into two groups: human-derived and plant-derived.
Human-Derived
Human growth factors can come from several sources:
- Your own blood, known as platelet-rich plasma, or PRP
- Fat tissue
- Bone marrow
- Skin cells
Some of these sources, such as fat and bone marrow, contain stem cells, which can produce growth factors and cytokines. PRP is different. It does not contain stem cells; its growth factors come from concentrated platelets.
Of these, skin-derived growth factors have a particular advantage for skincare. They come from the same type of tissue they are meant to support, so they are well suited to stimulating the fibroblasts in your skin (1, 6).
Plant-Derived
Plant-derived growth factors are bioengineered in a lab to mimic human ones, often using barley or corn. Unlike human-derived products, they usually mimic just one type of growth factor (1, 4, 6).
How Skin-Derived Growth Factors Are Sourced
This is a question we are asked often, so here is a straight answer about the two lines we use most.
SkinMedica® has the longest track record and the most clinical research behind it. Its growth factors are cultured from cells originally taken from a single donated sample of neonatal foreskin. No tissue is present in the finished products (1, 2, 6).
Neocutis® uses a lab-grown cell line called Processed Skin Proteins, which contains more than 100 growth factors and cytokines associated with scarless wound healing. That cell line was originally developed from a donated sample of fetal skin cells, taken from a pregnancy ended for medical reasons. Again, no fetal tissue is present in any Neocutis® product.
Some people are comfortable with this sourcing and some are not. Both are reasonable positions, and plant-derived options exist for anyone who prefers them.
Human or Plant: Which Is Better?
Skin rejuvenation is not driven by a single growth factor. It depends on several working together, including platelet-derived, vascular endothelial, epidermal and keratinocyte growth factors, along with signaling proteins called cytokines.
Human-derived products can stimulate that whole range. Plant-derived products usually supply only one type (1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7).
Both have been shown to reduce wrinkles, improve firmness and elasticity, and boost cell turnover (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7). For most people, we prefer human-derived products because they offer a more complete profile.
Plant-derived growth factors still have a place. They suit younger clients, anyone uneasy about how human-derived products are sourced, and anyone wanting to try growth factors at a lower cost first. Obagi® Professional-C Peptide Complex is one example.
Growth Factors From Your Own Blood
Serums deliver growth factors to the surface of the skin. PRP injections take a different route. Your own blood is spun to concentrate its growth-factor-rich platelets. Those are then placed directly into the skin or scalp, or applied straight after microneedling.
Many people use both: an in-office treatment to rebuild, and a growth factor serum at home to maintain the result.
How to Use a Growth Factor Serum
- Apply twice a day, morning and evening, to clean, dry skin.
- Take it down your neck and onto your chest. Both show age early and are easy to forget.
- Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning. No serum can keep up with daily sun damage.
- Pair it with an antioxidant such as vitamin C and a retinoid. They work well together and can speed up results.
Research shows the best results after six to twelve weeks of twice-daily use (1–7), though many people notice a difference sooner.
Which Product Is Right for You?
It depends on your skin:
- Oily or acne-prone skin: a lightweight gel formula, such as Neocutis® Bio Gel.
- Dry or mature skin: a richer cream, such as Neocutis® Bio Cream Riche.
- A simpler routine: an all-in-one serum, such as SkinMedica® TNS Essential Serum.
Not sure where to start? Call us, or ask at your next visit. For the other ingredients worth building a routine around, see our top five anti-aging ingredients.
References
- Aldag C, Teixeira DN, Leventhal PS. Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016;9:411.
- Gold MH, Goldman MP, Biron J. Efficacy of novel skin cream containing mixture of human growth factors and cytokines for skin rejuvenation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2007;6(2):197.
- Hussain M, Phelps R, Goldberg DJ. Clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural changes after use of human growth factor and cytokine skin cream for the treatment of skin rejuvenation. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2008;10(2):104–109.
- Katz BE, Bruck MC. Efficacy and tolerability of kinetin 0.1% cream for improving the signs of photoaging in facial and neck skin. Cosmet Dermatol. 2006;19(12):736–741.
- McCall-Perez F, Stephens TJ, Herndon JH Jr. Efficacy and tolerability of a facial serum for fine lines, wrinkles, and photodamaged skin. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2011;4(7):51–54.
- Mehta RC, Smith SR, Grove GL, et al. Reduction in facial photodamage by a topical growth factor product. J Drugs Dermatol. 2008;7(9):864–871.
- Schouest JM, Luu TK, Moy RL. Improved texture and appearance of human facial skin after daily topical application of barley produced, synthetic, human-like epidermal growth factor (EGF) serum. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11(5):613–620.
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